This past April, I ventured to a lesser-known but fascinating corner of the world: Moldova. You may ask, why Moldova? Well, as it often happens in sourcing, one trip leads to the next. When I was in Romania, a colleague said, “If you love the craftsmanship here, you’ll love Moldova.” My curiosity led the way.
Moldova was pure surprise. I traveled with few expectations but had an itinerary rich in artisan visits, which reassured me I was heading to the right place. I was fortunate to have a local guide who was well-versed in the craft sector. This kind of partnership is valuable on any sourcing trip but I felt it was absolutely essential for this trip. In Moldova, arranging meetings with artisans isn’t straightforward. It requires someone who knows the area, speaks the language, and can act as a cultural liaison. Artisans here aren’t easily found through a quick search or walk-in visit.
What comes to mind now when I think of Moldova? For one, rolling green landscapes – 75% of the land is farmland that’s dotted with small peaceful villages, Eastern Orthodox churches, forests, lakes, and a lot of excellent wine. Moldova is one of the world’s top ten wine producers, with over 200 wineries. This was a pleasant surprise to me! Because Moldova is still off the typical tourist radar, every moment traveling here feels like a discovery. The country has maintained a rare, genuine authenticity and – perhaps unexpectedly – some of the best food I’ve had in years. As it’s not yet part of the EU, the country is forced to source ingredients more locally. As they say, Moldova offers a “farm-to-table” experience – without the marketing.
Moldova is not a fancy, Travel + Leisure cover story kind of destination – and I love it for that. You can find those experiences if you’d like, of course, but I feel you miss what makes this place so unique. For example, I found staying in the small, locally run B&Bs was a highlight. This is where many hosts cooked incredible homemade meals – standouts included plăcintă (stuffed pies), grape leaves, goat stew, local cheeses, and of course, the wine. The B&Bs also often feature rooms decorated in a traditional Moldovan style – textiles adorn the walls which allow the beautiful sunlight to trickle through. The countryside is gorgeous. I also chose to stay in more of the rural areas to get a better feel for the normal life and culture, and to be able to walk out my door and wander the small villages for miles.
From a sourcing perspective, Moldova’s artisan craft isn’t as widespread as in neighboring Romania, but there is still a beautiful diversity, especially in woven carpets, pottery, and traditional blouses. Historically, Moldova was incredibly rich in craft, but much was lost during the Soviet era, when only one family per craft was permitted to make a living through their work. The Soviet system emphasized state-controlled production, forcing hundreds of artists to close their doors. As you can imagine, the USSR also pushed for rapid industrial growth, so traditional rural lifestyles were disrupted as people were encouraged to work in factories and undertake more urban jobs. Artisans were also discouraged (sometimes even forbidden) from selling their goods independently of the state, as this was seen as capitalist or even bourgeois. Only the best artisans were allowed to continue their crafts. Imagine, only one pottery family was allowed to stay open for the entire country. One artist told me, before Soviet times there were about 600 potters throughout the country, and now he is one of the few remaining, focused on traditional production methods. The Soviet system quickly eroded generational knowledge of crafts during its time in power.
In addition to the effects of the Soviet system, the notion of one’s time impacted the craft sector. Like in many places, craft was once a necessity of daily life. People had no other options but to buy locally or make their own essential items, such as basketry, clothing, bowls, and other goods for the home. Today there is no longer a need to spend one’s time making such goods when cheaper alternatives exist. People simply don’t have the time. Craft takes time and time is a luxury.
During the Soviet system, folk art was also only allowed if it promoted socialist ideals or could be controlled in some way. This led to a homogenization of traditional designs, stripping them of regional and/or symbolic meaning. Now that the country is free from Soviet rule, there is a resurgence of cultural festivals, and one of the crafts that is thriving is the embroidery of blouses. Many dancers and singers ask for custom-made costumes and outfits for such occasions. As my guide put it, “Craft remains prevalent among people who still live their traditions.” Today, Moldova is working to revive and reclaim these traditions as best they can. But it’s often in the hands of few, determined individuals.
Wool carpet weaving is in decline but being sustained thanks to the work of Mrs. Ecaterina Popescu. Her studio is a must-visit. Ecaterina dedicated her life to preserving the tradition. She employs around eight artisans, has an inspiring showroom, and is planning to open a school for young weavers. She has spent her life dedicated to being a lifeline to keep this craft alive. She’s a powerhouse to say the least.
The carpets in Moldova aren’t made for floors per se, but for the walls – mainly to insulate homes. “Even in summer,” Ecaterina said, “how you hang a carpet can either cool or warm a room. It’s practical, but also decorative.”
Ecaterina is dedicated to producing 100% Moldovan rugs – from the very wool fibers sourced in Moldova, to respecting the motifs which are truly from their heritage. It’s a time for Moldovans to be Moldovans. Ecaterina added: “When the flowers are too big or the designs are not too figurative, you can tell they’ve been influenced by other regions. They may still be handmade, but they’re not traditional. On a Moldovan rug, you sometimes have to guess what the woman was trying to express. The symbols come from what surrounds her – her daily life, her surroundings, the grains, holy basil, the Tree of Life, the black soil. It’s the story of the land, passed down through generations.” One rug can take about two months to complete, with prices ranging from €200 to €1,500.
It’s a good time to visit Moldova. On one hand, there are many young people who still want to leave for bigger and better (mainly that just means finding a decent job). Yet there’s a growing movement of Moldovans returning home to build out their vision, bringing what they’ve learned back home with a new perspective and a deep appreciation for their homeland. You can feel the optimism in the air in Moldova, especially in the travel industry. More wineries and B&Bs are opening every year. The main city of Chisinau is bustling but still retains a sense of calm thanks to all of its green space consciously interspersed throughout.
Having traveled quite extensively throughout Eastern Europe, I would say Moldova is now high on my list as one of the most authentic destinations in the region. I hope it’s able to keep this balance and maintain its authenticity while attracting more visitors. With tourism, it’s always a delicate balancing act between keeping things accessible and open to foreigners while keeping it authentic.
I think this balance can only take place if we travel better and look to support local businesses and artists. That’s why I’m delighted to offer more AOW Experiences – where you can work with my partners on the ground to create your own experience. These trips allow you to travel on your own terms – whether you run trips, wish to experience the country on your own, buy from artists directly, or simply experience the rich culture of an unfamiliar place. I’ll be doing this in a select few countries which are less well known, and in which I have established and trustworthy partnerships with local guides.
If you’re curious to experience Moldova through the lens of design, craft, and culture, let’s chat! I’d love to help you plan your perfect trip. I’ve partnered with a colleague on the ground in Moldova to help create immersive, authentic journeys – be in touch for details.
Contact Annie - info@aowhandmade.com
